baby blue timberland boots Display problem with Toshiba Satellite Pro 4600
Here’s a quick update on laptop display problems that I first reported here a long time ago. I finally got to work on my son’s Satellite A15 S129 which died the Black Screen of Death a couple of years ago he abandoned it. Well I inherited it, (my Christmas present from my son, a dead PC), re read the entire thread again, and got to work. The A15 S129 is a little different to Bob Pfeiffer’s Tosh 1800, but the same principles apply. Symptoms were as follows: mostly suffering from completely black screen (Windows etc showing very faintly at certain angles), occasionally screen lit and working perfectly, works fine with external monitor. The screen’s occasional reversion to full working was and still remains something of a puzzle, as does the fact that the Intel logo will often appear, brightly, at the bottom RHS of the screen on switch on.
Don’t forget to remove the power supply AND the battery from the computer. I also kept touching a nearby (very hot!) metal pipe entering a wall radiator to earth myself whilst working on the electronics.
The 2 screw heads securing the screen surround bezel are covered by round black sticky tabs, not rectangular, just next to the hinges. The tabs are difficult to remove without creasing but a fingernail is as good as anything. (There are also two difficult to remove rectangular blue sticky tabs on the very edge of the screen bezel, but these cover screws holding the screen to its metal surround and needn’t be touched. I know this now) Keep the tabs and screws safe.
A blunt ended table knife is the best tool to remove the bezel. Once you’ve started to lift it and some space is visible, fingers can be inserted and the bezel retaining tabs can be clicked undone one by one. The material of the bezel is quite flexible and tough be brave. The A15 S129 is more difficult because of the way the bezel is wrapped around the 2 ‘Titanium’ (whaa??) speakers but take it slowly and it all peels off eventually.
The inverter was revealed at last. It’s the long narrow green pcb, beneath the screen, held by a single central screw (you’ll need a very small jewellers cross headed screwdriver for this one) and encased in a clear rectangular celluloid tube. On the A15 S129 there doesn’t seem to be any stress on the cables caused by proximity to the hinge Toshiba seem to have learned about this nor are there any metal foil earth straps. I was disappointed to not see any obvious loose connectors on my inverter. (Remember it operates at high voltage battery out). There’s a multi pin connector at the left hand end and a two pin one with pink and white cables, which was very difficult to undo in my case, at the right.
The make and part number on the inverter pcb is Tamura HBC 0291. I undid the screw and carefully prised out the two plugs from either end. I sprayed both plugs and sockets with contact cleaner aerosol solvent and seated and re seated them several times. Plugging everything back together but leaving the bezel off, I replaced the battery, switched on and kept my fingers crossed. Nada. Zip. Nothing.
In the hope that this might indicate inverter failure I Googled ‘Tamura HBC 0291’ and was sent straight to an eBay Buy it now sale for a second hand inverter here in the UK which I bought on the spot for 10 +3 p which doesn’t seem too bad to me, posted next day first class.
About two minutes after the Pay Pal transaction I had my brainwave. My firm’s laptop is a Satellite Pro A40 with a similar spec to the A15 S129 (P4 instead of Celeron?). could it be??? Well they both have blue lids So with my new found bravery I prised off the bezel in moments, hey presto, Tamura HBC 0291! I then remembered to take out the battery (!) whipped out the inverter, swapped it to my son’s Tosh, switched on perfect picture! Hurrah! So intermittency notwithstanding, I’ve identified the problem and ordered the solution.
I could not have attempted this work without the advice and support of this forum, which I have followed for two years prior to having the opportunity to try out the fix. again to Bob and all the others who have put in time and effort here. (thinks wonder if work will shell out for a new inverter for the A40.?)
I wondered how you fared with your Toshiba after the repairs?
My Toshiba satellite has been blacking out constantly for the past two months and I am just about ready to throw it out of the window since it takes many tries to get it finally going for it to black out in a middle of LONG and important email I was sending overseas, amongst several other blackouts for the past two months.
After all the bad comments read on constant blackouts from several Toshiba users, I am not sure that I would want to continue further with Toshiba. I have my computer for a little over 2 years and fail to understand why this happens as I am not a technically geared person (woman).
I am thinking about buying an HP. And I see Sony has new computers out as well?
Can anyone made a recommendation on this make or any other make for that matter?
>> Same problem, different cause hairline crack in flat orange cable
I had a similar problem with an intermittent blank screen sometimes occuring after flexing the screen with a Satellite 1110.
The underlying cause was a nearly invisible hairline crack in the flat orange cable (within the lid that goes to the mother board).
The crack (which was a crack in the conducting copper, not the plastic flat cable itself) was next to the end of the cable that plugged into the inverter board (the inverter board is just below the LCD within the screen lid).
Pressure near the inverter would “fix” the problem because that would flex the crack. I recall it is just where the inverter presses against the cable against the top of the lid. It clearly was a design fault with cable and I strongly suspect that the same fault would occur in other laptops where the same type of cable is stressed in the same place.
Ideally, replace the cable. Alternatively you could try and solder a wire over the crack. Don’t cut the thin wires they actually have a wire core and outer conducting sheath and are not ordinary wires.
I have been plagued by a display problem with a Toshiba Satellite Pro which seemed to resemble so many of the other Toshiba Satellites I have seen mentioned here. After much troubleshooting the final problem ended up being the actual flexible printed circuit control connection to the inverter board. What occurs is that any pressure on the LCD top between the hinges causes deflection of the flat flexible printed circuit control and power connection where it plugs into the inverter board. The occasional flexing will cause cracks in the smaller control traces (the power and ground traces are larger and doubled up). In my case this would manifest itself by the backlight going out at seemingly random times. The big hint was that it would sometimes blackout even during booting, but most commonly while just doing normal computer work. The computer heating up would also make it worse. Often times pressing on the lid close switch would cause the backlight to come on for a few seconds. Tapping the switch would often work better, because of the extra vibration. My first repair involved soldering the traces of the flat flexible printed circuit connection “cable” but the repair did not hold because anytime I would pick up the closed laptop (sometimes by grabbing it by the back between the hinges with one hand) would cause the plastic cover to flex where the inverter board is mounted and push up the inverter board to move up in relation to the LCD frame, severely flexing the notorious flat control “cable”. This again fractured my soldered circuit traces. Since the cable is about a centimeter wide, with about 8 traces, it is damned difficult to solder (I did it with a 30x microscope I sometimes use for such repairs). A better option is to buy a new cable. But no matter what process you use (repair or replace) the issue of the weak plastic in that area flexing will still cause a future problem. I addressed it to some degree by placing stiff foam between the plastic back and the LCD frame, to help minimize the flexing. While I didn’t work to beef up the plastic back (not wanting at the time to have to pull the LCD off at the time) that would be worthwhile also). I also NEVER again pick up the laptop with one hand by the back between the hinges. I have had no further problems with the backlight. This was absolutely a design problem from Toshiba, at least with my 1115 S103.
I have a Satellite Toshiba laptop with the display broken then I have used an external LCD Monitor, But now when I power it on It doesnt change to the external display when pressing Fn F5 , The Laptops display is turned on but as it is broken i can not see anything, I check the external display with other laptop and it works fine
then the problemis with the Toshiba. Any idea or suggestion how can I change to the external display ??
I can see the external monitor when I turn the laptop on a safe mode but after it reboot, again can not change to the external monitor.